When does religious representation in fashion become blasphemous

For years, fashion has provided a space for limitless creativity, allowing iconic ideas to come to life.

However, in recent years, especially with the rise of shockvertising, the influence of social media, and the increasing effects of globalisation, those working in the fashion industry seem to be using their creations to push controversial ideas, attracting global attention in the process — often causing more harm than good. 

For instance, a Burberry hoodie with a noose around the neck, from the 2019 Tempest collection, which was meant to represent “rebellious youths,” was seen by some as insensitive to the serious issues of suicide and the history of lynching, sparking widespread criticism.

Another example occurred in 2018 when Kim Kardashian wore a Dolce & Gabbana dress featuring an image of the Virgin Mary. Many people found this offensive, feeling that using sacred religious symbols as fashion was disrespectful.

In recent weeks, the latest wave of controversy has involved two high-profile fashion incidents similar to the backlash Kim Kardashian faced, both focusing on the use of religious symbolism in fashion.

The New Arab has highlighted these reactions, as people continue to express their views on how such designs can cross the line between artistic expression and disrespect.

Dancing around the ‘Kaaba’?

Celebrating the 45th anniversary of the Lebanese fashion designer’s brand, The 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab fashion show took place in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, on 13 November, featuring 90 models, 300 looks, and performances by artists such as Celine Dion, Camila Cabello, JLo, and Nancy Ajram, with an audience of 900 guests.

While some social media users praised the event as a celebration of Lebanese artistry, others criticised it, particularly after footage circulated online showing a structure resembling the Kaaba, the holiest site in Islam, with dancers performing around it.

This footage caused an uproar among Arab social media users, with many accusing the event of mocking Islam’s most sacred site.

One social media user expressed their disappointment, saying, “Saudi disgraced Islam with this. This is the opening of Riyadh’s entertainment season in Saudi Arabia this year. They had a model of the Holy Kaaba where they displayed images of singers and dancers.”

Houthi Politburo member Muhammad Al-Bukhaiti also weighed in on the matter, stating that the performance’s resemblance to Muslim rituals was indicative of Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s influence.

In response to the criticism, Saudi authorities denied the presence of any idols or models around the ‘Kaaba-like’ structure, explaining that the cube was actually made up of four mirrors attached to the ceiling, with images and idols digitally displayed on them.

A double-edged sword

Another fashion-related controversy occurred with Palestinian-Chilean singer Elyanna, known for songs such as Mama Eh and Ganeni, and the Palestinian fashion label Trashy Clothing, founded in 2017, and whose clothing has been worn by celebrities like Mia Khalifa and Julia Fox.

Elyanna, known for her bold style, wore a Trashy Clothing belt during her New York show on 24 October which appeared to be a replica of the Zulfiqar sword that originally belonged to Ali ibn Abi Talib (also known as Imam Ali), the cousin and son-in-law of the Islamic prophet Muhammad. 

Historically, the Zulfiqar sword is significant in Shia Islam. It was given to Imam Ali by the prophet Muhammad during the Battle of Uhud and has come to symbolise bravery and divine support. The sword’s significance extends to its later use by Imam Ali in the well-known Battle of Karbala.

Given its spiritual and historical importance, the belt sparked mixed reactions, especially from the Muslim community, with many feeling Elyanna’s choice of clothing was a disrespectful display of the sword’s legacy. They viewed it as an inappropriate use of religious symbolism in fashion, feeling discomfort at the sight of such a sacred symbol being used as a fashion accessory.

To add further insult to injury, the community felt even more disrespected knowing that the sword was wrapped around a “semi-naked body” while she was dancing on stage.

One Instagram user wrote, “How do you see your costume as befitting when you’re representing the people of Aqsa, and the majority of them are Muslims, while making fun of their beliefs?”

Another X user shared, “Apologise for wearing Imam Ali’s sword, a revered religious symbol. This act is disrespectful to our religion and its figures. While I once supported Palestine, your actions do not represent its people. Apologise for this offence.”

Despite the backlash, not everyone condemned Elyanna’s outfit, and some saw it as a bold statement.

One supporter took to X and praised her, saying, “We thank #Elyanna for branding the Imam Ali Zulfikar Sword. It’s a message to the world that she, as an honourable Palestinian girl, knows that the Shia’s Axis of Resistance and their allies are the ones that will free Palestine. It’s a message ignorant idiots don’t understand.”

This is not the first time Trashy Clothing has used swords with religious symbolism in its designs; in a recent Dazed feature on the clothing line, images showed a model holding two swords against his back in photoshoots that seemed to mimic the practice of Tatbir, during which some Shia Muslims strike themselves with swords or chains during Ashura and Arba’een — an act that some Shia clerics consider “haram” or forbidden due to its association with self-harm.

At present, neither Elyanna nor Trashy Clothing has publicly commented on the belt controversy, but Elyanna has recently been seen wearing a new belt at her latest shows, replacing the sword belt.

Furthermore, in the Dazed feature mentioned earlier, the co-founders of Trashy Clothing, Shukri Lawrence and Omar Braika, maintained that the label’s vision and designs are intended as satire.

They clarified that their goal is to poke fun at pop culture, Middle Eastern politics, and what they consider “low taste,” in an attempt to “reclaim the Palestinian and Arab identity, and subvert what is considered different, cheap, and trashy in modern culture.”

Zainab Mehdi is The New Arab’s Associate Editor and researcher specialising in governance, development, and conflict in the Middle East and North Africa region

Follow her on X: @zaiamehdi