Cévennes: ‘Forbidden’ US grapes thrive in climate change

In the picturesque village of Aujac in southern France, septuagenarian winemaker Gilbert Bischeri tends to his forbidden grape varieties with dedication. Despite the ban on selling nectar from these unique grapes, Bischeri and other rebellious winegrowers in the region are determined to preserve and rehabilitate these hybrid varieties, originating from the US in the 19th century.

Inspired by a deep-rooted tradition passed down from generations, these grape varieties have become a symbol of resistance and preservation in the face of strict regulations. With organizations like Fruits Oubliés Réseaux and Mémoire de la Vigne advocating for awareness and support, the forbidden grape varieties continue to thrive discreetly.

Bischeri’s annual production of 600 bottles, given away in exchange for membership or tasting, highlights the passion and determination of these wine enthusiasts. Despite initial skepticism, officials from Cévennes IGP have been won over by the exceptional quality and flavors of these forbidden nectars.

Through their relentless efforts, these winegrowers are not just preserving grape varieties but also reviving a piece of history and heritage unique to the region.

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